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Day 73: OK, all youse geniuses! Help!

Man - I need to read FWW at work during the day.

There's already 5 responses to that "add a girlfriend into the mix at midday" line before I even get home from work . . .

That said - good luck on our project Bill !

Jim
 
Bill do you think you'll EVER get over Mt. Shopvius & down into the valley of the Jolly HO HO HO Doorlink kitchen?:):D:rofl::wave::rofl:

Coming to your shop door soon!!!!
One super sucker shop vac.
 

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Day four: Rain

Hey, folks,

Well, as promised, it started raining yesterday, which means everything had to get back under cover, which means shop cleaning is over. at least the mess is manageable now. It was likely just a procrastination device anyway... ;)

And look what's coming:

A COLD FRONT MOVING THROUGH THE REGION WILL BRING COLDER AIR INTO THE AREA. RAIN WILL MIX WITH AND CHANGE TO FREEZING RAIN THIS EVENING... AND POSSIBLY CHANGE TO SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT. TRAVEL WILL BECOME HAZARDOUS... ESPECIALLY AT HIGHER ELEVATIONS. ICE ACCUMULATIONS WILL LESS THAN A QUARTER INCH AT HIGH ELEVATIONS WITH LIGHT SNOW OF PERHAPS AN INCH ALSO EXPECTED.

I really need to move back to San Diego! ;)

So, today, the cabinets start coming down. And the pot rack. One of the big arguments is about taping drywall. Doorlink says all existing joints need to be retaped. I keep telling her one uses tape where the bevels are, and that if we tape unbeveled seams, it'll show... but she ain't listening. Last time I lost this argument was on a basement room... and guess what, the seams show. But I guess it *is* Her kitchen, after all... ;)

James got hold of the camera yesterday, and started taking candids... ;)

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Yes, that's Doorlink, caught unawares... ;) On to the problems! The pot rack I made for her has to come down. She lusted terribly after those pots, but now says they're too pretty to use! Track lights have to come down too...

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Which means it's time to decide about cieling treatments. I wanted copper panels, but they're out of reach. So my next idea was embossed wallpaper, which I'd then cover with copper paint. Not getting anywhere with that one... ;)

Here's why the cabinet has to come down:

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She was so happy she got all that to fit! ;) That incident changed the way I build cabinets, and the way I hang them, too... :doh:

Oh, and did I mention the house, at 45 years old, is starting to sag?

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Oh, and a four year old can really be heck on drywall! I *might* be able to get to the back side of these holes, which will make them easier to fix. The walls *will* get wallpaper... thank goodness!

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Thanks,

Bill
 
Bill Lantry said:
One of the big arguments is about taping drywall. Doorlink says all existing joints need to be retaped. I keep telling her one uses tape where the bevels are, and that if we tape unbeveled seams, it'll show... but she ain't listening. Last time I lost this argument was on a basement room... and guess what, the seams show. But I guess it *is* Her kitchen, after all... ;)
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I'm afraid I'm going to side with Doorlink on this one. I'm no expert, but I've always taped non-beveled joints. As I understand it, this is why there are such things as 12" taping knives, so you can taper out from the joint and help make it disappear. How else would you handle a butt joint? :huh::dunno:Compound alone would certainly crack.

Am I understanding this correctly? If not, feel free to slap me around a little.:rofl:
 
Vaughn McMillan said:
Man, your wife must be very open-minded. (Or does she not know about your girlfriend?) :p
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The girll is Sarah... Julian's inamorata. She's coming over again today, so I can expect no help from Julian. ;) Let's see: helping Doc with construction Vs. hanging out with girlfriend... which would a red-blooded eighteen year old choose? "But Dad, we have to do homework together!" I guess that explains the young man's grade point average... there's not much homework getting done!

Heather is not happy I'm spending all this time on the kitchen. Have I never mentioned Heather? Everytime Doorlink gets a little troublesome, I say "That's it! I'm calling Heather!" She's a delightful and elegant young woman, in her 20's, who, sadly, doesn't actually exist! :doh: When James was three, I said it once too often, and James pointed at Doorlink and said "You're Heather!" :rofl: Doorlink even got hold of my cell phone, and made it so that when she calls, the phone reads "Heather". So, I have a young staffer, who I've known for years (she was my student many a year ago), who I recruited to come work here, and who has known Doorlink for a long time. Since I'm terrible with phones, I let her reprogram my cell... and she saw all those calls from Heather. :p She didn't dare say anything, but I could tell something was bothering her terribly. The look of relief on her face when I explained the Heather/Doorlink dichotomy was priceless! :rofl:

By the way, under the category of 'sauce for the goose', Doorlink is always telling me how handsome her accompanist is... some young man from somewhere in South America with the kind of long hair she finds so attractive. Whenever I get difficult, she says "Did I mention how handsome Eduardo was today? I could barely concentrate on my singing!"

Which is the real reason why the kitchen isn't done! :(

Thanks,

Bill
 
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bill, looks like a fun project. now that the shop is manageable let's see it get dirty again.

that pic of the plates in the cabinets scares me. i'd open that door slowly if i were you...:eek:

chris
 
Here's another vote in favor of Doorlink's opinion concerning the taping of the butt joints. A hundred years or so ago I hung sheet rock for a semi-living. While taper joints can be disappeared with a 12" - 16" wide "mudding", butt joints require about 3 times that width if the rock is not gonna be textured. In those days we seldom textured walls, at least not in Nebraska where I was working at the time, so we avoided butt joints in walls at as often as we could. Since we hung it horizontal, we would often be hanging 16' sheets on the walls in large rooms, and if we had to have a butt joint, we would stagger them so they did not go from floor to ceiling. Ceilings were not a problem because that was in the days when that popcorn stuff was really popular, and so no where near the finishing work had to be done under that stuff.

I do have a question, though. What is that Bob Woodward book doing in with all those great wood working books in the shop library?:)
 
Bill,

I've did drywall for many years professionally and I've got to side with her on this, so long as the joint is cracking...just mud those that look bad. Some repetiative cracks (been fixed before), may require you to remove the old tape and start over to keep it un-noticable. The flat joints where there is no bevel, you'll need to taper the joint on each side by about 12". Do a 3 coat minimum for a nice job.
 
Bill,

I was surprised to notice that your cabinet doors had three hinges. How tall are your cabinets? Mine are 42" and the doors only have two hinges. They work fine with just the two.

Your wife sure maximized the amount of dishes in those cabinets! What thickness are the shelves? Do you plan on increasing the thickness or maybe increasing the stiffness some other way, like installing a hardwood banding to the front?
 
Bill Lantry said:
...Heather is not happy I'm spending all this time on the kitchen. Have I never mentioned Heather? Everytime Doorlink gets a little troublesome, I say "That's it! I'm calling Heather!" She's a delightful and elegant young woman, in her 20's, who, sadly, doesn't actually exist! :doh: ...
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In our house it's not Heather, it's "The Sweaty Black Biker Chicks". They come over often, but only when LOML is not around. (No offense intended to anyone who's sweaty, black, a biker, or a chick.) :D Anything in the house that's misplaced or out of order, the SBBCs get the blame. They also console me anytime LOML is not nice to me.

Oh, and in case nobody has mentioned it, I'd tape the butt joints in the sheetrock. You can taper the mud to...I dunno...about 12" on either side of the joint. :p
 
I quote Doorlink, directly (she's standing right here): "See? Everyone agrees with me! Everyone! To a man!"

Is there no-one, on any continent, who will defend my pitiful honor?

Dang! And now she's talking about Eduardo again! As in "Even Eduardo tapes his butt joints!" :doh:

Thanks,

Bill
 
Filling Drywall Holes

Bill, they've got Kits now to use to repair holes in Drywall, but for the last 45 yrs or so, I've used a little trick of my own to do it, and it's quite simple.

I cut a piece of window screen wire, (not the plastic kind), about an inch or more larger than the hole in the drywall, then loop and tie some strong thread, (or a few short pieces of the screen wire that I unravel from the edges) to the screen wire. Next, roll the screen wire so you can push it through the hole while holding the thread, (to keep from dropping it inside the wall. Then pull the threads to get the screen pulled up flat against the inside of the drywall and tie the threads to a popsickle stick, tongue depressor, pencil or dowel that is flat against the outside of the drywall in several places to hold the screen in place while you fill the hole. I then use "Spackling compound", (which doesn't shrink as much as the normal drywall mud) and fill the hole. You may still need to do two applications to fill the hole so it is slightly thicker than the drywall and when it is dry, remove the sticks & trim the thread and sand it flush. You can skim coat it with mud if it needs it, (but probably won't). Since using this method, I have NEVER had to redo one of these repairs.

Oh yes, I almost forgot, "Tape the Butt Joints". :D

And the "Heather" in our house is Ann Margaret, and "Eduardo" is George Strait.:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
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I had a sheet rocker show me this trick.

Cut the sheet rock to repair a hole an 1"- 1 1/2" bigger on all sides then turn the piece face down & cut away that 1"- 1 1/2" leaving the face paper so you have a piece of sheet rock with an 1"- 1 1/2" of paper or a little more all around the edges . Then tear the edges of the paper so it is ragged in other words no straight edges. Now coat the edges of both the hole & the plug & back side of the paper sticking out around the plug & push it into place & using your trowel smooth it into place & finish with a skim coat or 2. This makes a real solid repair. This takes about 15 minutes from squaring the hole up to skim coat.
 
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Bill Lantry said:
Which means it's time to decide about cieling treatments. I wanted copper panels, but they're out of reach. So my next idea was embossed wallpaper, which I'd then cover with copper paint. Not getting anywhere with that one... ;)

Here's why the cabinet has to come down:

View attachment 26749

She was so happy she got all that to fit! ;) That incident changed the way I build cabinets, and the way I hang them, too... :doh:
Click to expand...

Bill,

I hate taping and mudding, and I'm not particularly good at it. So I'll skip that one. (but I encourage you to repeat after me: "Yes, dear. Whatever you say, dear." ;) )

But I'm surprised no one has commented on the ceiling. As someone who has dealt with dark rooms, and dark paint I must warn you... Anything other than a white ceiling is going to make a serious impact on the room ambience. If you do a copper, or even copper coloured, ceiling, the room is going to become much darker. Think carefully before you proceed! Are you putting in more lights? Do you have big windows? Do you get sunshine?

(we're repainting our Family room this Christmas to try to deal with this exact thing. It's on the north side of the house, and has a darker paint job courtesy of the previous owner.)

But as for that cabinet... :eek::doh:
I agree with the other comment. Please, fix that cabinet. I'd replace the shelf, if it is particle bd, with plywood. And I'd also put a hardwood reinforcing strip (1-1.5" tall) on the front and back.

Best wishes!
...art
 
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