Although you were about as close to my home town as you came down I-35 as you were to where I live now. (I'm from Ada originally) Jim.
Powered it up with the throat plate off, and no cyclone and I could hear a light rattle until about 1/2 speed, then it went away. Same noise towards the end of the power down cycle. Listened to it twice, then it hit me. I had done the same thing as someone over at SMC (I think)...I had put the blade washer on backward!!! 
Don't know how long it would have taken to figure it out if someone hadn't had the privilege of making that mistake before me!! 
Cut another strip of the ply, and all is good. So on to the ducting redo at the multipurpose wall. The original setup just wasn't working. So this, I think, will be much better. 
The left leg will go to the DC hood for the RAS/SCMS, when I get it designed and built. And the right leg will go to the planer when it is being used. 
I still need to attach a short piece of 4" pipe and a couple 45s so I don't have to have too long of a piece of flex going to the planer hookup.
Still trying to decide if I'm going to move the rails to the right or not. I'll leave it this way for a while and see if I have a need to change. 
The main shop ceiling height is 7'8". Where the cyclone is mounted the ceiling height is 7' 6 1/2". (Was originally a carport, and this is the storage area that is raised slightly) I actually wanted to put it in the attached finishing room, but couldn't find a way to make that happen. Ducting would have been a pain since whoever put the roof on the addition and tied it into the other roof didn't take the old roof off first. If one had the headroom to do this, I'd think in a corner with the pipe running to the opposite corner would work very well also. The main thing I tried to do in designing my ducting was to keep it simple, and no U turns. I also have a pretty simple shop with out a lot of equipment, so that helped keep it simple too. Jim.
Rob, I didn't have a choice...I had to put it at the gable end to have enough height. The other gable end is in the middle of my swing out door.
just kidding.. glad your on the home stretch jim.. looks like you almost ready to make some new dog house for your friends
Oh that would make me sick. I know how my heart sank into my stomach when I saw what looked like fork lift holes in the cardboard around my saw when the driver opened the trailer door. I can't imagine the feeling of losing it off the back of a truck. Why on earth would someone move an expensive tool around with out proper tie downs? I brought a riding mower home from OK in a trailer with sides and gate on it, and I still had 4 ratchet tie downs anchoring the thing. Jim.
Works like a charm! The sandwich parts of the gate, and the sides of the pick up, are 3/8" plexiglass scrap that was here when we bought the house. The slide of the gate, and the top of the pick up is PTEG scraps I got from Ed at Clear Vue. The hook up is a 4 X 3 to 4" round adapter for gutter down spout to 4" S&D PVC. Perfect match. Make the 4" part set wide, and the plexi butts up against it. That sets the width of the pick up where it straddles the throat plate on the saw and rests on the CI top. I ran a piece of the UHMW tape on the bottom edges and it slides up and over wood and my Smart Miter very nicely! I made this one longer to angle the snout so it would go over the Smart Miter. The original one on the other saw hit the miter bar and stopped everything.
Here it is with the new piece cut out and attached and with the drawer slides mounted. 
Looks are not deceiving, it is shallower at the bottom than the top. I was limited by my mobility design as to how deep it could be at the bottom, but I knew I needed the top shelf to be much deeper to hold my Jointech Smart Miter. 
They will store upside down, and the runners allow the bolt heads to not scratch the bottom. After painting and allowing a month or 2 to completely dry, I'll put some slick tape on the runners. The 2 drawers are sitting back to back beyond the bottom section, and the door to hide the mobility blocks is just beyond that. 
I need to do some touch ups. And the fit isn't perfect, but it works. I need to get some of the toolbox liner material to put in the drawers. Drawers have 2 coats of water based poly on all surfaces. 
The bottom door just pops into place and is held there by 2 magnetic catches. 
Works better than I thought it would. When my pivot system didn't work for the bottom, I figured I'd need 2 more of the catches, but I think not at this time. The body color of the cabinet was matched to the motor cover on the saw, but isn't that close. She kept adding to the original mix, and it looked very close wet. But after 2 coats and decent drying, it looks a lot grayer than the saw. But it will do fine. The runners for the casters to slide in on have pieces of PTEG on top of them so that the paint won't get scratched off. Wish I had a big piece for the top shelf for the Smart Miter to sit on. 
I'll have to look for something to put up there.
Found I failed to cut the 6 cross braces to length. (I always seem to get ahead of myself.) Cut some new ones, cut them to length, then re-cut the dados in them. Test fitted, took apart and started gluing. 
I need a chamfer bit to match the angle of the chamfer on the front of the table saw top/wings before it's finished, then seal the exposed oak, and poly the underneath and front edge where it will butt up against the wing. Need to decide if I'm going to drill 2 holes in the edge of the wing to suck the extension table up tight or not. I have decided, now, that I should have doubled up the MDF on this particular edge to make it a little stouter. Oh well, I'm sure it will work. If worse comes to worse, I'll cut open a spot underneath and slip a fender washer and nut in to secure that edge. 
Very easy to adjust and supports the extension table very nicely. When I make my final adjustments, I'll screw into the sides through the angle iron and rear rail pieces. Yeah, I know, I still need some 1/4" ply to back the cabinet with. One of these days...... Jim.
It's not something I plan to do. I have enough trouble getting the shop up where I want it, and planning things out for the flat world that I want to do. Maybe once I get the house renovated in 10 years or so, I'll venture over. I think I've offered for anyone in the area that wants some to come on over and get it, maybe in one of the posts about what we're doing for the weekend, or what we got accomplished, both here and at the Creek. Anyone reading this and would like some, let me know. Otherwise it will get burned, and I'm not sure it's very good for that. Jim. The torsion box idea is cool. Should be as good as a cast iron top. Did i see you refering to bondo before you put the laminate down? So you patched the top wood screw recesses with bondo or what?
I just like to have a good smooth surface for the glue. I haven't had any problems with the glue bunching up in places. I use a 6" long, 1 1/4" diameter short nap finish roller to put the glue on. Pretty easy to get an even consistency with it. I did end up with a piece of wood chip when putting the laminate on my router table. Made a huge bump. I had to drill it, the epoxy a penny in to get rid of it. Guess the pieces of wood I used to hold the 2 pieces apart before sticking it down carried it in there. I use old mini blind louvers now. Easy to wipe down with a wet rag to get all the loose stuff off before using...no splinters! Jim.
As you can see in the pictures, while I was at it, I went ahead and moved the fence all the way to the right. I went from just over 49" rip to almost a full 65". I still need to make sure all my adjustments are where I think they are. Probably will do the 5 sided cut test to verify. The new Infinity combo blade is on. By the way, this is a great looking blade! Their Nickel-Armor finish almost gives it a full chrome look! Very nice!!! Much more industrial looking that some of the finishes available. Hopefully it will not rust either. My Forrest WWII 30 tooth after less than 8' of 2X material ripped came out rusted last week. I'm still cleaning it up.
Using this, it is very easy to adjust, then lock the knobs down and it all stays put! 
I got a piece of QSWO since that's what the arms looked like to start with. I'll fire up the planer for the first time. Only 6 years old!!! Then template route those, and drill to match the mountings. I'll get started on that this afternoon. 