DC Remote 240v

[Rennie Heuer]

My DC remote, second version of the Pen State Industries Long Ranger, now over 20 years old, is giving up the ghost. It works, but only if it is within 8" of the receiver. Although PSI offers replacement/additional remotes for its third generation switches, no such product is available for the first gen. So, I find myself in the market for a replacement.

Generally speaking, staying as far below $100 as possible, there seems to be only two 240v options available - the PSI Long Ranger III and the Grizzly. There are several well above the $100 mark, such as the Jet, and a slew of cheap (under $30) available on Amazon, though all of those hardwire in, have no provision for the neutral leg, and don't come with a lot of positive reviews.

The PSI LR II has served me well over the past 20 years. My biggest complaints are the boxy shape of the remote makes it difficult to keep in a pocket and using the belt clip is not much better as it catches on benches, etc. I'm sure a contributing factor in the demise of my unit can be traced back to the hundreds of times it hit the floor.

The Grizzly has a more ergonomic look to it and it is brightly colored (would help me locate it when I've forgotten where I laid it last). It also has I timer function which I would find useless.

Both offer replacement transmitters should I ever need one and they are comparably priced and reviews are predominantly favorable.

So, does anyone have experience with either the Grizzly or any other than the LR? Pros? Cons?

 

[Darren Wright]

No suggestions other than maybe there is capacitor going bad in your current remote that might be a .25 cent replacement. Might be worth finding an electronics guy to take a look at it. Or open it up yourself if you feel comfortable doing so.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

No suggestions other than maybe there is capacitor going bad in your current remote that might be a .25 cent replacement. Might be worth finding an electronics guy to take a look at it. Or open it up yourself if you feel comfortable doing so.

I've had it open many times, but I have no idea what I'd be looking for.

 

[fred hargis]

Rennie, I had a Shop Fox 240V remote I bought after I dropped my Long Ranger fob once too often onto the concrete. I suspect it was a tleast a cousin to the Grizzly, and it was, literally, a piece of junk. Within 6 months the outlet fell out of the box inpieces, and it wasn't one where you just went out and bought a replacement. It came with 2 fobs (a big attraction to me) and one had already quite working. Bear in mind, this was probably 15 years ago and the current models may be a totally different make/design. If you are interested in a DIY approach, you can buy a 240V contactor, put it in a box, and switch it with a cheap light remote. The contactor is nearly a lifetime thing, and if the $10 light remote goes out you keep a spare on hand and change it out. That's what I've been using since I tossed the Shop Fox. This is a fairly easy build and can usually be done for less than $50 or so.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

Rennie, I had a Shop Fox 240V remote I bought after I dropped my Long Ranger fob once too often onto the concrete. I suspect it was a tleast a cousin to the Grizzly, and it was, literally, a piece of junk. Within 6 months the outlet fell out of the box inpieces, and it wasn't one where you just went out and bought a replacement. It came with 2 fobs (a big attraction to me) and one had already quite working. Bear in mind, this was probably 15 years ago and the current models may be a totally different make/design. If you are interested in a DIY approach, you can buy a 240V contactor, put it in a box, and switch it with a cheap light remote. The contactor is nearly a lifetime thing, and if the $10 light remote goes out you keep a spare on hand and change it out. That's what I've been using since I tossed the Shop Fox. This is a fairly easy build and can usually be done for less than $50 or so.

Fred, I like the way you think. I checked Grainger and a 240 v contactor can be had for a little over $20. There are a slew of household remotes available for well under $20, many with multiple remotes - a big plus as I can spot them around the shop near my machines. Toss in s few sockets and a box to hang it all on the wall and I think I can do it for under $60. An added incentive, there are a dozen YouTube videos that walk you through the process.

 

[Darren Wright]

I've had it open many times, but I have no idea what I'd be looking for.

99% of the time I've had electronics go bad, it's due to a bulging capacitor. The capacitor stores up a small burst of current, when it reaches its capacity, it releases that current, which in your case is sending the signal to the controller. I'd guess that a capacitor is going bad and not storing up the current needed to release and get a strong enough signal.

Examples of capacitors that are bad vs. good...

In some cases the capacitor may have some slight leakage at the top of the capacitor. Good capacitors should have a good flat top on them. Ones that probably need replacing are slightly bulged up.

These type of capacitors are electrolytic capacitors. They come in many sizes, from starter capacitors for motors to very small. The size is on the side of them along with their tolerances. Usually there is a positive and negative wire/pin off the bottom that needs to be unsoldered and re-soldered in the correct orientation.

You can order them from amazon, digi-key, mouser, and many other places for pennies. Might be worth spending a few to see if it fixes it for you. There may be a small one on the controller end causing it too, so may check both the remote and it.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

99% of the time I've had electronics go bad, it's due to a bulging capacitor. The capacitor stores up a small burst of current, when it reaches its capacity, it releases that current, which in your case is sending the signal to the controller. I'd guess that a capacitor is going bad and not storing up the current needed to release and get a strong enough signal.

Examples of capacitors that are bad vs. good...

In some cases the capacitor may have some slight leakage at the top of the capacitor. Good capacitors should have a good flat top on them. Ones that probably need replacing are slightly bulged up.

These type of capacitors are electrolytic capacitors. They come in many sizes, from starter capacitors for motors to very small. The size is on the side of them along with their tolerances. Usually there is a positive and negative wire/pin off the bottom that needs to be unsoldered and re-soldered in the correct orientation.

You can order them from amazon, digi-key, mouser, and many other places for pennies. Might be worth spending a few to see if it fixes it for you. There may be a small one on the controller end causing it too, so may check both the remote and it.

Here’s what I have. Not seeing the tell tale signs you mention.

 

[fred hargis]

Fred, I like the way you think. I checked Grainger and a 240 v contactor can be had for a little over $20. There are a slew of household remotes available for well under $20, many with multiple remotes - a big plus as I can spot them around the shop near my machines. Toss in s few sockets and a box to hang it all on the wall and I think I can do it for under $60. An added incentive, there are a dozen YouTube videos that walk you through the process.

Rennie, the one thing to keep in mind is that such a remote will need a 120V outlet nearby to operate the cheap light switch, it will power one the contactor which of course is connected to your 240V outlet. If the 120V outlet is very far away, you can use a longer cord to wire the switch to the contactor coil....just keep that in mind.

 

[Darren Wright]

Here’s what I have. Not seeing the tell tale signs you mention.
View attachment 120863View attachment 120864View attachment 120865

The ceramic capacitor in the middle of the 3 on the right might be suspect since it looks to have a chip in it. But again, might check the transceiver on the other end too.

Difference Between Ceramic and Electrolytic Capacitor

The main difference between ceramic and electrolytic capacitor is, in ceramic capacitors, the dielectric is a ceramic substance. In electrolytic capacitors,

pediaa.com

Edit: also look for any loose solder joints or traces on the back side of the board(s). Any burned looking solder joints.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

Ok, looks like some discoloration at the solder connection below that center capacitor. Here are shots of the board with close ups of the area in question.

 

[Darren Wright]

Ok, looks like some discoloration at the solder connection below that center capacitor. Here are shots of the board with close ups of the area in question.
View attachment 120866View attachment 120867View attachment 120868View attachment 120869

It might be that, but looking again I couldn’t tell if it was a chip or just some of the printing ink from its stamping on it.

Let’s see what the controllers side of it looks like.

 

[Jay Caughron]

I had my DC set up like what Fred said. It worked great but I had a lot of Aircraft flying over and would go into the shop and find the DC running. I had to change the code in the remote several time before finding one that kept it from starting up from AC radio transmissions (I was less that 10 miles from airport). I just got in the habit of unplugging the 120v receiver if I was going to be gone for long or overnight

 

[Rennie Heuer]

It might be that, but looking again I couldn’t tell if it was a chip or just some of the printing ink from its stamping on it.

Let’s see what the controllers side of it looks like.

It is paint! I went after it with a dental pick and could not feel a ridge.

Getting into the controller might take a bit, it's a little less accessible.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

I suspect you’re going to tell me that guy in the upper right is our culprit.

 

[Don Baer]

I suspect you’re going to tell me that guy in the upper right is our culprit.
View attachment 120870View attachment 120871

 

[glenn bradley]

I suspect you’re going to tell me that guy in the upper right is our culprit.
View attachment 120870View attachment 120871

Sure looks like a cap that went boom to me. If there is a local or online source for that I would spend the small amount to find out. If it works you're good for another decade or so. If not, the system has given you years of service and can rest in peace.

 

[Darren Wright]

I think I'd replace it, and the larger one at the bottom, to be sure. I can't tell if there is a bulge in that top right one, and if it's dust or some leaking, but they are cheap to replace.

 

[Darren Wright]

If you go the DIY route, I powered my relay in my setup from my lighting circuit in my shop. If the lights were off, the relay would not toggle on accidentally due to interference.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

Rennie, the one thing to keep in mind is that such a remote will need a 120V outlet nearby to operate the cheap light switch, it will power one the contactor which of course is connected to your 240V outlet.

You can also get contactor's that trigger from 24v (transformer could be powered by the same 240v service that feeds the DC or the 120v light circuit..) and then use the same 3 way and 4 way lighting switch setup to have multiple control points around the shop. I kind of like the 24v solution better because it's lower voltage so you can use smaller (cheaper) wire and less risk overall.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

I think I'd replace it, and the larger one at the bottom, to be sure. I can't tell if there is a bulge in that top right one, and if it's dust or some leaking, but they are cheap to replace.

OK, I've built some electronics before (remember Radio Shack, Heathkit, Lafayette) so I'm comfortable replacing them, but, what do I look for when shopping for these parts?